rudder up-haul jamming

[Colin Morley]

 I am having trouble with the rudder up-haul jamming between the rudder and rudder stock. This can be a big problem if I am in a position where I must raise the rudder and I am on my own. The only thing I can do, and it is very difficult, is to lean right over the stern, almost to the point of falling in, reaching out to the back of the rudder and lifting it a bit so the up haul can be freed.

Any advice how I can prevent this. I cannot squeeze the rudder stock against this part of the rudder. Bigger ropes may not go round the top of the rudder and interfere with it moving.

[Graham W]

Coiln,

How big is the gap between the rudder and the rudder stock?  Do you have a photo?

If there is a big gap all the way round, you could consider installing (very) big diameter PTFE washers on each side, as in this thread http://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,329.msg1478.html#msg1478.  That would dissuade the uphaul from straying into places it has no right to be.  Matthew swears by old CD's, which serve the same purpose.

[Colin Morley]

Thanks Graham,

About two years ago, because of the rudder play in the steel stock I tried putting a cut out piece of plastic in the slot. That never work well and it fell out.

You have given me a good idea. About two miles from where a live are Cherry Hinton plastics. They have a lot of experience and many different plastics in stock. I will show them the problem and see if they can source me two pieces of the optimum material of just the right thickness and cut to size.

Then I will have the problem for getting it all together again and back on the boat!

I will let you know what happens.

[Peter Cockerton]

Colin

The rudder on my BR20 now gives me no problems following a couple of small changes.
The up haul rope has a small block in the feed to give a 2:1 advantage this may be standard fit now, I also put an outboard type starter handle on the end of the up haul to give a better grip. A single flowing pull from fully down  to vertical is essential, from horizontal to vertical is almost impossible without help to lift the rudder.

I installed large diameter washers between the rudder and stock made from a material from an old boot liner, the washer edge is visible from looking at the back of the rudder and the intention of this was to isolate all of the rudder contact area from the rudder stock. This I did last season and rudder play and jamming is now not evident.

You can cut this material with hand tin shears and cut the axle pivot hole with a drill.

I have some of this plastic still left if you would like me to send you some.

Peter Cockerton

[Anthony Huggett]

I quite agree with Graham. As a self-builder I spent some time sanding and epoxying the head of the rudder to make it snug but not at all tight. It's still a really hard pull with a 2:1. 

Getting it down below the horizontal is also tough unless you drop it in from fully raised in one motion.

[Colin Morley]

I have now solved this problem. Much is in the library but I thought I would add from my experience.

I bought a small sheet of PTFE 3 mm thick from Cherry Hinton Plastics. The diameter of the PTFE disc needs to be 21 cm. This is exactly the size of the head of the rudder. I chose 3 mm because it is a tight fit on one side of the rudder but does fit in. I could not see any point in trying to fit a thinner disc either side. It is tricky enough to fit one side.