Outboard starting problems

Started by Peter Taylor, 20 Jun 2015, 08:06

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Peter Taylor

A couple of tips for starting my 6hp Tohatsu (called "Dai"),  learnt from the Patrol team leader in Chichester Harbour earlier this year, which I've been finding useful. A common problem is apparently that the kill cord switch does not break (?*) contact when the kill cord key is inserted. Pulling the button outwards by hand a couple of times first helps. Then (with the kill cord in place) pull out the starter cord gently one or two times to circulate the oil. Only then give the cord a "you will start... won't you" type pull!

I know I'm tempting fate, but Dai seems much happier with me since I followed these tips!  By the way, I'm also using a short (about 10") removable gear lever extension which makes putting the motor into neutral/reverse much easier when trying not to ram the jetty or pontoon.  Not only is it easier to reach but for some strange reason the gears seem more positive compared to just using the little "paddle" lever on the outboard.

Peter

* (note added later) as I understand it, without the kill cord key in place, the kill cord button earths the electrics to the motor casing so the motor can't run.  Inserting the key is supposed to break the contact - but it doesn't always do so especially if the motor hasn't been used for some time.
Peter Taylor
BayCruiser 20 "Seatern" (009)
http://www.seatern.uk

Rob Johnstone

Peter,

Thanks for the observation. I'd noticed a similar issue with Freddie, the 6HP Mercury - also, there's a little red LED near to the kill cord that seems to flash as you pull the starter cord if the kill cord hasn't been re-seated properly. An expert on these things tells me that the easiest way to avoid these problems is to leave the kill cord in place and stop the engine by pressing on the button on top of the kill cord. This breaks (or makes, whatever) the contact and, because the kill cord has not been taken out, the "go" state is restored as soon as you take your thumb off the button.

I'm also intrigued by your gear lever extension - did you make it yourself, or is it an official accessory?

Rob J
Rob J
Matt Newland designed but self built 15ft one off - "Lockdown". Ex BC23 #10 "Vagabond" and BC 23 # 54 "Riff Raff"

Peter Taylor

Rob,

My interpretation of the little red light is the opposite of yours!  My understanding is that it is the oil pressure warning lamp.  When you pull the starter cord you generate electricity but not a lot of oil pressure.  therefore the lamp flashes on and off.  Since there is electricity there, it suggests that the kill cord switch IS properly seated!  If the lamp does not flash when I pull the cord gently, I try fiddling with the kill cord button.

Re. the gear lever it was made by taking a hack saw to one of the flimsy plastic paddles that came with the very cheap Intex Seahawk 2 dinghy I bought as an alternative tender.  I wouldn't try to use them for rowing but one has been converted into a useful gear lever. I'm attaching photos to illustrate what I did.  I only used a fairly short extension length so it would fit under the BC20 tiller.  The bottom bit is permanently bolted to the original gear lever and then I screw in the short extension when preparing to dock.

Peter
Peter Taylor
BayCruiser 20 "Seatern" (009)
http://www.seatern.uk

Rob Johnstone

I see I need to read the manual - oil pressure light - what will they think of next?
Rob J
Matt Newland designed but self built 15ft one off - "Lockdown". Ex BC23 #10 "Vagabond" and BC 23 # 54 "Riff Raff"