Outboards, electric and petrol, for epoxy/ply Bayraider 20

[MarkDarley]

I see the Mariner 3.5hp is only 18kg (40 lbs) as opposed to the larger ones which are 25kg (60lbs).  Most other manufacturers 4+ hp are 25kg and up. That is a fairly large weight difference in the end of the boat.
(The Tohatsu propane is also 25kg )

Is the extra horsepower needed and worth the weight difference?

PS. Have I got this whole discussion in the wrong part of the forum?

[johnguy]

I had the Tohatsu version of that engine in my old boat, a Salterns Tela so smaller. Great engine, super reliable. But no reverse, which is a handy thing to have in a BR as it is hard to spin the engine in the well. Enough poke in calm weather, wouldn't cut the mustard in my area for the BR.

[Andy Dingle]

Mark.

I actually had a wood epoxy (WE) Bayraider (No.12 'Psalter') and I also had a 3.5 tohatsu (same as the mariner, still got it in fact) - The 3.5 will power the boat but as John Guy says if you want the power in any kind of sea or wind then it's just not enough - and more importantly, as John again says it has no reverse - I wouldn't ever go for any engine without proper forward and reverse gears - and the ones with the gear lever on the front if possible.
In my opinion it's just bad seamanship if you think you can 'spin' an engine whilst manoeuvring in a marina for example, you wont!
I had the tohatsu 5 - the remote tank fits nicely in the cockpit lockers with the fuel pipe running through the aft drain hole.
(NB. GRP BR owners note. The WE BR is designed and built with drain holes already in, no water filling up the lockers!!)

As for electric motors - they are the very spawn of the devil and should be totally banned from any use at sea (I think!).


Andy

[Graham W]

As for electric motors - they are the very spawn of the devil and should be totally banned from any use at sea (I think!).

Even in the Ionian, where there are nearly no currents, the Torqeedo 1003 wasn't up to the job.  There are enough things to think about when carrying a boat full of well-refreshed passengers back from the taverna against a headwind and a short chop.  No need to add range anxiety to the list.

[Peter Taylor]

My comments (only just found this thread, shouldn't it be in "Technical"!), most of this has been stated elsewhere:

Torqeedo 1003: I echo the warnings below! The shortcomings have been discussed at length elsewhere in this forum. My negative experience is described at http://seatern.uk/2014/06/torqeedo-1003-electric-outboard/ . Like many others, I tried and failed to "go electric".

Petrol outboard starting problems: my technique for a "cold" 6hp Tohatsu (taught to me by the Chichester Harbour Master) is (1) tweak red kill switch once or twice before fitting the kill cord to ensure it breaks contact fully; (2) prime the fuel line well; (3) choke full out and zero throttle; (4) two slow full pulls to circulate oil etc.; (5) one rapid, determined pull to start. If the motor might still be warm from previous use then there's more guess work involved. First try with no choke and throttle set to "restart". Only use choke if that fails. Of course, all methods include initial bowing and flattering words to the outboard and many offers of thanks when it starts.

Fuel/ethanol/water problems: I add Star-tron fuel stabiliser and I buy the premium grade fuel; I filter through a water-excluding filter when topping up the external tank (which I keep "full"); I've fitted an inline fuel filter between tank and motor. Whether any of this makes a difference I've no idea. The inline filter has not accumulated any water during this summer's use so is perhaps superfluous.

Slow running problems: in 2016 the motor would stop when throttled back which made shifting gear difficult which in turn made close manoeuvres very difficult. When serviced at the start of 2017 the engineer fixed this and this year it's felt like a different outboard. Rumour has it that there is a slow running adjustment which is factory sealed to comply with EU emission standards, but that it is possible to break the seal and adjust the motor... only a rumour! Of course the jets need to be clean too. Seatern is "afloat" all winter and I try to run the outboard for a short time every 2-3 weeks as well as getting it professionally serviced.

Built-in versus exterior fuel tank: My 6hp Tohatsu had an internal tank which I thought of as a reserve. However if the outboard was lowered the main sheet would catch on the filling cap at the first opportunity. It also struck me that the petrol in the small tank was more likely to go off if the tank was not regularly used. I've now removed the internal tank and only use the external one - and have never used more than half it's 10l capacity on a trip, even if motoring some distance so I don't miss the reserve.

Electrical generator: my short shaft Tohatsu (fitted with high thrust prop) doesn't have one but it's an option which I wish I'd specified. Fitting after purchase is very expensive. Has anyone experience with one on one of these outboards? I'm told they don't generate much - but every little helps!

Peter