Outboard Transom Protector Plate

[Peter Cockerton]

On my old boat the transom plank always looked unsightly with the outboard fixing screws and end plates marking the wood, so I'm thinking of fitting a stainless plate which will protect the two edges at the top of the transom plank and extend down the plank just beyond the outboard fixing screws.

The plates would have to be made to order (I have discussed this with Matt; he thinks it is a good idea, would need time he doesn't have to design at the moment).

The plate will not extend down the rear of the plank so as to allow the outboard clamps to "firmly grip" the plank.

The stainless will eventually get marked of course but will still look more attractive than the marked plank and subsequent Cetol coatings.

I'm prepared to find a local fabricator to supply the plates and the design could be drawn up from your input. Please let me know what you think of the idea and if interested in fitting one to your boat. I envisage that the plates will be attached to the plank with several screw points and not be bonded with adhesive so they can be removed and re-polished if desired.



Peter C

[plasticpaddy]

Sounds like a great idea. I was thinking something the same after looking at the marks created on Meg. Would certainly reduce the damaged caused to the transom

[Peter Cockerton]

Thanks for your thoughts on this, when you get five perhaps you could think about the design that would suit your outboard clamps, i.e. would you like the plate to be just wide enough to fit the distance between the clamps plus another 100 mm say or would you like it the full width of the transom. The bend over the plank could be just bent over (possible clamp marks for the bend machine) or we could have it welded. On my old boat I had a pair of Whale pumps on the transom so not sure if the plate should extend that far or to fit the new pumps on top of the plate and then screw into the transom plank.

Anybody else has any thoughts on this.

Peter C

[plasticpaddy]

How about a plate either side that you would connect with stainless nut and bolts, just slightly bigger than the outboard screws/bracket.
I'm also just thinking you'd maybe want some sealant to stop water getting trapped between the plates and the transom board.

[Peter Cockerton]

Thanks for the members coming back to me on PM, will get back to you soon. New boat collection getting imminent and things to do and organise.

Peter C

[Rock Doctor]

Peter,
I understand your problem, I have the same on my BR20 especially as last winter I sanded back and repainted the outboard transom. Your solution with a stainless stell plate sounds good but expensive but would the clamps holding the motor might not have enought "bite" on the stainless either site, probably that is why wood is the go-to for the transom. However you might want to consider a solution that one of my sailing mates constructed for his Welsford Pathfinder. He used the white poly chopping boards and cut them to suit making two long sections either side of the transom and a strip screwed into the vertical pieces to hold every thing together. Makes an inverted "U" shaped fitting that slips over his transom when he uses his motor Screwing these in place would fix them even further. The poly boards are about 6mm thick and are bought at the local supermarket. I am getting some to fit to my BR20. Being softish poly the motor clamps would bite into the poly as they do on wood. To me this is an elegant solution. In an advanced economy as in the UK you might be able to source some that are coloured to suit your boat's colour scheme. I am looking for some green ones!
Regards to all.

[TimLM]

Hi Peter, I would also like a stainless steel protector for the outboard traansom. My thoughts have been along the lines of wider than the bracket by a small amount and screwed or bolted through. I had thought being bent twice to the thickness  of the wood would be ideal. I do take your points Chris, they won't be cheap and they would potentially have slippage but with the ribs I have driven with stainless plates I haven't experienced any movement so am happy to fit one. the other slight advantage would be a deterrent to theives if the motor were bolted through it. So if you were putting in an order I would also lkke to buy one with you.
Tim

[Peter Cockerton]

Tim and other interested parties.

I have spoken to one fabricator reference the stainless transom protector plate and he didn't seem interested in a small quantity order.

I have found what might be a low cost solution however, Amazon amongst others sell kitchen surface protectors made from stainless steel, a plate with a single bend along its width which provides a stop designed for the thickness of the work surface. I have found a number of different width and depth designs of these plates and when I get chance to measure my boats outboard brackets and the thickness of the wooden transom I'm hopeful in getting one to do the job with some cutting down of the plate depth. Securing holes would need to be drilled ( my experience in drilling stainless requires a sharp drill and plenty of coolant suds). Some of the plates specify the stainless grade I'm working on 316 being ok. The back of the transom would not be protected to allow the clamp plates to byte into the wood.

Have a look and see what you think Tim,

Peter C

[TimLM]

Thank you for your research Peter and sorry for the delay in responding. I have a couple of thoughts - I already have the right stainless steel and was thinking of making my own, however it would just add to the job list so would like to find a ready solution.
A cheap alternative could be 1 or 2 of these?:-
https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/alloy-transom-pad-with-safety-eye-880.html#SID=716
The Kitchen edge protectors look pretty good but would still require a fair bit of fettling so maybe I'll go back to my metal supplier https://www.metals4u.co.uk/stainless-steel/c8/angle/c77 and by a length of this and ask for it to be polished. I would be happy to get extra and cut it to length for anyone else who would like 1 or 2?

[Peter Cockerton]

Tim

Thanks for your research and views, the "off the shelf" protector would do the job but I wouldn't want to put it on my boat. Polished stainless is what I'm looking for I think and if that metal supplier of yours has the material we need it could be the way to go.
Have you a size in mind to use.

Peter

[TimLM]

Hi Peter, I agree those plates do not age well and ard not attractive to begin with. I'll measure up tomorrow and post my thoughts.

[TimLM]

OK 2 options:
Mk1 as you can see would fit over the wood, but would leave no way of preventing the motor jumping off.
Mk2 could be fitted facing out so giving a lip to prevent the jump off. A second one could be fitted on the aft face protecting that and lipping over the top to protect the top.
My thoughts are to drill and screw either of both with countersunk screws though round head could double up as jump off preventers.
The bending is not such a big task and I'm sure with a little research I could find someone to do it. The metal could come from "Metals4u", mainly because I know them to be reliable, they might do the bending, hmm, I'll ask. Drilling cutting and finishing I can do and if anyone else would like one/them I'd be happy to go ahead and order in the stainless. I will get prices and post again.
Anyway thoughts and "in progress" ....

[TimLM]

Ah well that was easy, the metal would be about £10 for the Mk2 version in 2mm 319 (A4) dull polished stainless and would include the cutting discs, I would go for 2mm as any thicker would be a little difficult to manage, so if anyone would like these I'll go ahead and order in the stainless.
Tim

[Peter Cockerton]

Tim

You have done well, many thanks for your effort on this. Mk2 is probably the best shape, and it's what I had in mind but with sufficient metal to cover the top of the wood. If not I will buy two and fit one each side.

Peter

[TimLM]

Aha a Mk 2a excellent I'll get on with a few and update here when I've everything in place.
Tim