Re:- Trailering in Europe

[Tony]

Hi Julian.
Off to Croatia, eh? Looks a top cruising ground for small boats. Not been there myself yet as sort of locked in with friends in the Ionian but its on my ToDo list ( along with the Gulf of Finland when I  can afford the thermal underwear.)
First time I trailered abroad I had a bad case of paranoia and the following list of docs– plus  VAT receipts for everything newly bought.

1.   Boat Insurance.  Specific for the areas sailed.
2.   IYT Day Skipper Certificate and log book.
3.   IYT ICC  (Coastal)
4.   RYA National Powerboat Certificate Level 2
5.   SSR for "Four Sisters" plus red ensign.
6.   Ships Radio License
7.   RYA Marine Radio Operators Certificate.
8.   Car insurance, Green card and International breakdown cover.
9.   Cars' Log book and MOT Cert.
10.   Personal travel insurance.
11.   NHS EHIC Card.
12.   International Drivers Licence. (Not needed in EU with the new "card" style  licenses.)
13.    Oh, Yes! Passport.

After nearly 10,000 miles of trailing and sailing in France, Italy and Greece (Do we count Wales as abroad these days?)in three years I ve only had the following incidents.
1.French Authorities - none. Unless you count the Gendarme in a RIB at the Golfe du Morbihan who assured me that the 7 knot tide had finished running!
2.Italy.
a/ Stood over by a grumpy young cop while I tied on a long vehicle sign. (RAC didnt tell me it was a requirement.)Could have had an on the spot fine for that one.
b/ Quizzed by heavily armed police on the Turin/Bologna road. Turned out that they liked the look of the boat and wanted to know where I got it from.
3. Greece.
a/ Port police in Gaios left a message for me to report with Ships Documents. Just gave a brief glance at the SSR.
b/ Cabin searched by soldier armed with automatic rifle at ferry port in Igoumenitsa. Looking for Albanian youths who d been trying to stow away on ferries. 
4. UK. (Dover-Dunkirk)Cabin searched for drugs by a very nice Spaniel. Took an embarrassing interest in old boat shoe.

Overnight stops.
In France some of the campsites cost as much as the cheap hotels. Then you ve got to find them. They re in pretty spots miles from the motorways. (People have had problems camping at Aires, the En route stop-overs.) We stick to toll roads and Premier Classe/Campanile chain hotels - a habit developed pre SatNav!

In Italy found it hard to find campsites but hotels are good (and the food at service stations is much better than France!) If you go to Croatia via Ancona I can recommend  Jolly Hotel Miramare (seriously!) for pre war elegance at Campaniles prices.

In Greece. Sleep on the beach! No one gives a damn and the mosquitoes will love you to bits.

If you need hard facts rather than my rambling reminiscences get in touch with the RAC or AA....but watch the small print if you buy travel insurance from them.

[Adam Nicolson]

Tony
I'd very much like to take my dinghy (Wayfarer) to the Ionian but I am rather daunted by the long drive. Have you ever shipped a dinghy as deck cargo? Or put one in the back of a lorry? Or maybe I should just bite the trailering bullet?
all best
Adam

[Tony]

Hi, Adam.
      Not seen a Wayfarer in the Ionian yet. Should be great. Where do you plan to go? 

A daunting trip, you say ... well, its a long way but its also the reason for the Ionian being worth the trip when you get there. (Seen the Solent in August lately?)
   Just think what the ever-growing BayRaider fleet would do to a little place like Loggos if they all took the trip! Heaven Forbid!

   However, the main drawback for someone with just 2 weeks for a summer break is the time it takes out of your sailing.  My wife and I, unbearably smug with a month or so to play with, find that the trip gives us time to relax and unwind – and actually TALK to each other after a heavy working year. It is, for us, and enjoyable build-up to the holiday on the way out and a useful space for reflecting on the work to come on the way home - but I would not fancy spending 3 or 4 days on the road each way with small children in the back of the car and a deadline to meet. (Been there – done that – got the t-shirt.) You can find peace, tranquillity and good sailing a little closer to  home!
   Alternatives to towing?
I have flown out to the Ionian for many years prior to owning Four Sisters and have learned to hate airports. I plan in the future to keep a second boat out there  to avoid the towing but still intend to drive whenever I can - to avoid check-in desks, cancellations and passengers whining about upgrades - perhaps spending time visiting places we normally tow straight past.
I have looked at alternatives to towing the boat out there myself but as:

...EuroStar wont take us  (check out http://www.raileurope.co.uk/  or http://www.seat61.com/Europe.htm  in case I am wrong)

...I dont trust Four Sisters to survive either a few months in a shipping container or a week on a flat bed truck, (its not the fall, its the sudden stop at the end!)

...It is obviously possible to hire a 30' cruiser in Greece quite easily.

...I have seen one or two privately owned Drascomes ( mostly survivers of the small fleet Sunvil used to hire out) and even a Laser Stratos in the Ionian (Lakka harbour).

...Practically any largish port will have some 15hp speedboats for rent,

...Large  holiday centres often rent out windsurfers and sometimes  Laser Picos, etc.

...........but if you want a daysailer out there you will have to bring your own.

   Driving on French and Italian motorways is nothing like battling through rush hour on the M4 or M25.   The roads round Turin and Ancona can sometimes get busy, especially in the Italian holiday weeks, but the worst bit of the journey is definitely the 4 or 5 hours it takes us to get from Dover ferry port to home. (The first Motorway Service Station in the UK is always a depressing reality check.)
Most of the toll roads on our route across France and Italy are a pleasure to drive with plenty of stopping places, good services (usually promoting local produce) and, especially with SatNav, easily found hotels. You dont have to tow your boat through any towns or difficult minor roads unless you want to but it is tempting to visit places like Urbino if you have the time. Your first trip will be a bit nerve-wracking, perhaps, but if you have done your homework, have all your gear and trailer well sorted and a reliable car -with air conditioning- you will be fine.
    My advice would be – Go for it! Get there before the BayRaider fleet lower the tone!

Cheers!
      Tony

PS

Note to Matt Newland.
         I am not really anti-BayRaider, I am just jealous! The BayRaider is possibly the best boat on the market for this kind of trip. Easy to trail and has the performance you need when you get there.  I though the Cardigan Bay Lugger was as good a boat for the job as there was – and I still would not swap her – but I have to admit that self draining cockpit, self-righting, ballast adjusted on the fly, efficient windward rig.....weeell, any chance of a test sail in August?  ...lasting about six weeks...?
Just thought Id ask.......

[Bill Wickett]

There was a charter outfit that had an open 18' gaffer available for charter in the Ionian. Was Maritme Yacht Charters. Seems they were from the UK in Kent. However their website is no longer up.

I read an article in which? magazine maybe 4 years ago. Author and his 2 kids. They both anchored out some nights under a boom tent and also arranged to rent small apartments for 2 or 3 nights at different ports. Sounded fabulous.

Would love to track that down again. However, if there was Swallowboat available for charter there.... 

Winter dreaming. Especially since I am in Calgary Alberta today and it was -24C this morning. I need all the help I can get.

[Adam Nicolson]

Fantastic and inspiring answer Tony, thank you. I will pursue. all v best Adam

[Tony]

Hi,

Just to whet your appetite, take a look at this:- http://www.planos.co.uk/video.htm
Paxos is our normal summer stamping ground but to be honest, the sailing is better in the Inland Sea so do check out Lefkas
http://lefkada.agni.gr/ 
and Kefalonia
http://www.agni.gr/kefalonia_travel_guide/Kefalonia_Resort_Guide/ 
before you make up your mind.

If you need a general cruising guide to the area you cant beat Rod Heikells "Ionian" (Imray guide) intended for 25 foot plus types. 
Sailing a (really) small boat like my CBL here has its own problems. I would be glad, if asked, to post a list of all the things Ive managed to get wrong – so far - and perhaps some tips about using local ferries.

Cheers!
             Tony