Self bailers

[Bill Strange]

Do I fit a self bailer in my new build Storm 17
My experience is with racing dinghies that definitely get wet and need self bailing. When the boats are not in use they still fill up even with a good cover. So how do you get rid of the water. Do you use an automatic pump. I will fit a manual pump for when I am sailing in the rough stuff.
Bill:-

[Craic]

Hi Bill,
I know too little about the S17 to be able to offer specific advice.

But generally my experiences with selfbailers on Swallowboats are as follows: Smaller Elvstrom (wedge-type) selfbailers work relatively more efficient than the larger ones. SuperSuck (Venturi principle) start to suck at lower speeds and suck longer, only downside is they lack a non-return flap. So during each tack or slack you see some water flowing back in.

All deciding is speed through the water, with the Elvstroms expect no miracles under 4.5 knots;
and do not mount the bailers too deep in the hull, better further up where the water actually gathers when the boat sails well heeled in a blow, that is when you will need the bailers.

Hope this helps.

[Craic]

I forgot to caution: Watch out where you put the selfbailer so it will not be in conflict with your trailer rollers or side supports. -We all forget to close the bailers from time to time.
The wedge bailers are unproblematic at least when you retrieve the boat, they are hinged on their forward side and just fold in when there is a keel roller touching from the front.
But the Super-Sucks are different, they have no hinge, they are pushed out as a whole and if they get into conflict with a keel roller there may be a mess and damage.
Same applies for all selfbailers alike -wedge or Supersuck- if they are left open during launching and come into the way of a roller.

[Jeff Curtis]

Hi Bill
Like Claus I can only tell you of my experiences with the Bayraider. I fitted three extra self-bailers to my wooden boat 'Spark'. A Supersuck to empty the ballast tank (next to the filler but on the other side of the keel) and two Holts Golden Bailers either side in the sump, as this is where the water gathers when heeled. They were all pretty useless. The Holts bailers let more water in than out as they do not have a non-return flap; the Supersuck was OK but was too small and also did not have a non-return flap. After talking to a chap at Sailboats.co.uk who explained how easily plastic bailers get broken I took them out (anyone want three battered self-bailers) and replaced them with stainless steel Elvstrom/Anderson bailers, two extra Minis in the sump to match the exiting one in the centre and one Large in the ballast tank. And they do work quite well. You do need to be travelling quite fast and the ones in the sump work better when the boat is unballasted - I think it may be to do with the angle of attack - but the Large bailer in the ballast tank will completely empty it in about 10 or 15 minutes. So now I don't have to scrabble around for the two forward bailers, though these are useful if the boat speed is lower. The Large and Mini bailers fit on the outside of the hull and give a neater finish than internal fitting bailers. Good luck with the build.
Jeff

[Bill Strange]

Hi Claus
Thanks for your reply. I guess they are needed. Good point about the rollers. Also thanks for your large contribution to the forum It is nice to know how the boats get used. When my boat gets finished I hope to join in! The decks are on.

Hi Jeff
Thanks also to you. I have ssteel bailers on the Streaker racing dinghy which are ok if you remember to use them correctly. They often let more water in than out because I have either kicked them open or not close them when stationary. They might be the best option though.
bill