Forestay mod to allow mast dropping for bridge transit

Started by spikeandco, 02 Oct 2021, 18:59

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spikeandco

Weatherwax our BR20 (Bermudian rig) is based in Weymouth and outings have to be well planned as we are constrained by the 2 hourly bridge lift at the harbour.  We are thinking about a block and clutch/jammer set up between the forestay and the bowsprit with a line back into the cockpit to enable the mast to be dropped and raised relatively easily while afloat. I remember seeing James Caird in Mylor in the spring had been adapted by Viv Thomson and James Read, but as we had only been owners for a few days, didn't really take in the design. I wonder if there are any set ups out there that we might copy. I am particularly concerned about how to fit any deck organisers, clutches, cleats etc to ensure the mounting is strong enough so we don't damage the GRP.  Ideas and advice gratefully received.
Spike and Angela
BR 20 'Weatherwax'. Plank sprit, conventional jib. Asym spinn. Coppercoat. Yamaha 6. Based Weymouth

Llafurio

Quote from: spikeandco on 02 Oct 2021, 18:59
... I wonder if there are any set ups out there that we might copy. ...

Yes. The Gunter rig. The BayRaiders were originally meant to be Raidboats. So the early boats all had the Gunter rig, and for a purpose: To be able to raise and lower the main mast in seconds, in order to be able to change between sailing and rowing, even to "shoot bridges", in mid-race.
The Bermudian i.e. "USA rig" did away with all that. A lonesome decision, doing away with "Classic Looks" and "Raider" in a single stroke. -My reason to fall out with SwB.

BTW, genuine Raiders have kept their Gunter rig, and if you yourself would re-rig your boat with a Gunter rig, you would have no problem with your bridge lift times. C.
Ex various Drascombes, ex SeaRaider (WE) #1 "Craic", ex BR20 (GRE) "Llafurio", ex BR20 (GRP) "Tipsy", currently BRE (modified for open sea passages) "Homer", Drascombe Drifter "27". Homeport: Rossdohan

Graham W

Here's a photo of 'James Caird' this summer.  As reported by Viv, the forestay has two blocks giving a 4-to-1 purchase led through the redundant spinnaker bowsprit hole (just about visible on the photo) to a cleat on the vertical face at the front of the cockpit. The furler line and spinnaker tack line are led aft the same way to keep the foredeck clear. The mast is raised, helped by the forestay purchase, then tightened and cleated off.  The conventional jib is raised and cleated off and then the forestay eased to transfer the tension to the jib luff.
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 No.59 'Turaco III'

Peter Cockerton

Then of course we have to address the process of getting the main boom attached, positioning it just under the track, feeding the sliders, attaching the gooseneck sorting the lazy jacks if fitted, attaching main sheet, all whilst under way. Not so much of a problem on the hard but with wind and swell and the boom swinging about ??

Peter C
Bayraider 20 mk2
Larger jib set on bowsprit with AeroLuff spar
USA rig
Carbon Fibre main boom with sail stack pack
Epropulsion Spirit Plus Outboard

spikeandco

Many thanks Llafurio, Graham and Peter for your thoughts and info.  Hindsight being a wonderful thing perhaps the Gunter rig would have suited our location better, but I think we are stuck with our USA rig for the moment. I agree about the challenges of raising the mast a swell and I think this solution would be just to get us under the bridge and tie up alongside to reset everything. The picture of James Caird is great and I can see my winter project taking shape.  Will report on the success of my endeavours!!  Thanks again everyone for your time.
Spike and Angela
BR 20 'Weatherwax'. Plank sprit, conventional jib. Asym spinn. Coppercoat. Yamaha 6. Based Weymouth

Graham W

I'm not sure that gunter rig is even on the BR options list any more. 

Both rigs have their advantages and disadvantages.  Ease of reefing is definitely top of the list for the Bermudan rig and air draft for the gunter rig.  I think that with a bit of thought and practice both rigs can be made to overcome some of their disadvantages.  So I'm no longer overwhelmed with the thought of having to reef my gunter rig as I have all sorts of modifications and techniques to make it easier. 
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 No.59 'Turaco III'

Llafurio

With just a few extra fittings worth under 30 quid in total the Gunter rig is quick and comfortable to reef. Incomprehensible that SwB didn't fit the boats out with it. Could have saved us from the "USA rig" schism.   
Ex various Drascombes, ex SeaRaider (WE) #1 "Craic", ex BR20 (GRE) "Llafurio", ex BR20 (GRP) "Tipsy", currently BRE (modified for open sea passages) "Homer", Drascombe Drifter "27". Homeport: Rossdohan

Charles Scott

Quote from: Graham W on 04 Oct 2021, 11:29
I'm not sure that gunter rig is even on the BR options list any more. 

Both rigs have their advantages and disadvantages.  Ease of reefing is definitely top of the list for the Bermudan rig and air draft for the gunter rig.  I think that with a bit of thought and practice both rigs can be made to overcome some of their disadvantages.  So I'm no longer overwhelmed with the thought of having to reef my gunter rig as I have all sorts of modifications and techniques to make it easier.
Graham. I should be most interested in details (and photos if possible)  of your "modifications and techniques " to make reefing the gunter main easier. I have searched the forums ( fora?) and found some info, but would love to know what you have done. I do have  a double topping lift which I have found invaluable.
  I am a fair weather sailor, but of course one can always get caught out, as I was this summer. We sailed out to Clare island in Clew Bay, Co. Mayo with a very benign forecast , the ship's company consisting of me, Alison , my non-sailing wife, her daughter Katherine, and the dog. A pleasant force 4 or so, on the beam, so we made good time to the harbour where we pulled up on the beach. A short walk to the pub for Guinness and fish chowder, and we noticed the wind strengthening, the cloud lowering and a little fine mist, so we forewent the last pint and made to set off back to the mainland. Alison found that she just had time to catch the last ferry, so she and Mimi ( Springer spaniel ) boarded that, leaving Katherine and me to sail back, which is where the reefing came in. Hitherto I have either sailed under jib and mizzen alone, or resorted to  the iron topsail. After about half an hour of wrestling with the main halliard, the topmast, the reefing points etc. , I judged that we were ready to set off into the force 6 or so that was now nearly on the nose. The sail looked terrible, but time was running on, and I thought we had better get going, Anyway we made it, though the pictures of us taken by Alison from the ferry are most certainly not fit for forum consumption. So, please help me avoid a rerun of that day, with as much info as you can .
   Many thanks, Charles
Charles.  GRP Bayraider20 no. 75.  "Augusta Thomasina"

Graham W

OK here goes.....
Things in square brackets relate to modifications that I have made to make reefing or handling faster/easier.

Turn into wind.  Make sure that you have plenty of leeway astern, as you will drift quite a distance.  Or use anchor or drogue, or motor slowly ahead
Jib furled
Tiller and mizzen secured amidships so that you weathercock into the wind [a reliable tiller lock is absolutely essential equipment]
Double topping lift up [a double topping lift is the other essential modification for easier reefing and general tidiness]
Mainsheet fully released
Yard dropped fully down, captured by the double topping lift
Mainsheet on
Lower parrel bead strop off [my parrel bead strops are secured by a bead through a loop at the other end - much easier to do and undo]
Downhaul hook moved up to next reefing cringle [I have a much longer slide on the aft face of the mast and have reversed the downhaul, so that an open hook attached to a Clamcleat jamming roller at the top end and a small block at the bottom gives a 2-to-1 purchase to pull the tack downwards.  See attached photo.   I also have small soft shackles through each luff reefing cringle, as it is much easier to put a hook through those than through the cringle itself]
Outhaul released and snaphook moved in and up to next cringle [again through soft shackles instead of the reefing cringles themselves.  Snaphook attached to a strop with a small block through which the outhaul line passes and also secured by a shackle loop around the boom, to prevent reefer's droop]
On second reef only, undo soft shackle loop on outhaul hook and reattach further along boom, to get it past the mainsheet attachment point on the boom
Affix tie around mainsail halyard and yard [the original system involved detaching the yard from the main halyard and then re-attaching it further along the yard.  If you have ties permanently attached to the yard at those positions, you can simply tie a reef knot around the halyard, thus securing it to the yard in its new position]
Roll up loose sail at the foot and secure with reefing pennants
Mainsheet off
Raise yard to new lower position
Topping lift off
Outhaul out
Downhaul down
Tiller brake off
Turn off the wind
Mainsheet in
Jib out, mizzen trimmed
Sail!

I've been thinking (since at least the beginning of this season) of putting slab reefing lines on the mainsail leech cringles to speed up things still further.  I'm always interested in making life easier for myself, so please post any further ideas, even if this is somewhat off topic
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 No.59 'Turaco III'

Graham W

After all this I've just remembered that there's a whole on-topic and copiously illustrated thread on gunter reefing here https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,1991.0.html.
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 No.59 'Turaco III'

Charles Scott

Quote from: Graham W on 06 Oct 2021, 11:47
After all this I've just remembered that there's a whole on-topic and copiously illustrated thread on gunter reefing here https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,1991.0.html.
Graham, Thank you very much for all the very helpful information, My search of the forum had taken me to the above, but halfway down it, and stupidly I had not looked at the earlier part, which as you say has all the info I needed. Anyway, I can now get on with the modifications required. Thank you ( and apologies to all for taking this thread rather off topic)
Charles.  GRP Bayraider20 no. 75.  "Augusta Thomasina"