BR20 mizzen fairlead screws pulled out of mast

Started by Mike R, 12 Oct 2022, 12:00

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Mike R

I was recently sailing on a run and the mizzen blew right round as I had failed to cleet the opposite sheet.  The resulting shock to the system was to pull the fairlead, complete with screws out of the mizzen mast.  I have tried fitting the screws of the next size up but to no avail.

I understand the later boats (mine is 2009) have a wooden plug inside the mast to retain the screws, but earlier versions seem to rely on a couple of mm of carbon fibre.  My current solution is a couple of tie wraps, together with the upper screw loosely in the hole (to stop the tie wraps riding up the mast).
I have also now put stop knots in the mizzen sheets to stop it going over centre again.

Has anyone else had this problem/ got a tried and tested solution?

Graham W

The bit that has pulled out, is it the bullseye fairlead screwed into the aft face of the mast, about a foot up from the base, to which the mizzen tack is attached with a strop?  If so, it sounds like this has happened before to older BR's, probably several times https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,445.0.html.  An answer involving epoxy (other solutions may be available!) is also suggested there. 

I'm afraid that attaching fittings by screwing into bare carbon fibre and GRP was a bit of an issue with early BR's.  Most owners of older boats have since systematically examined all such fastenings for potential failure and reinforced them with penny washers, wooden slats, plugs or whatever else was feasible or appropriate.

I'm fairly sure that this is irrelevant but I'll post the link anyway https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,1216.msg8609.html#msg8609.  I've been using my mizzen boom with the outhaul reversed for donkey's years now and would certainly not go back to how it was originally rigged. 
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 No.59 'Turaco III'

Llafurio

Mea culpa - I had introduced windsurfer masts to Matt for Mizzen masts and gaff yards, but maybe did not tell him how to reinforce them.

Two ways how you can do your repair:

1., take out the foot plug, and insert an inner plug turned from mahogany and push that up inside the mast to where the fairlead screws are to get new grip,

or,

2., simply use some "Fischer FU 6x35mm" nylon plugs, and follow the instructions on the box, or on Youtube.

C.

P.S.
And, I forgot to mention this time, but this applies to each and every fitting to be screwed down on carbon,: All contact areas -both of the fitting itself and of the carbon- must be primed with nitro solvent, best after some sanding, and the fitting and screws must then be set in Sikaflex or Pantera bonding. CR
Ex various Drascombes, ex SeaRaider (WE) #1 "Craic", ex BR20 (GRE) "Llafurio", ex BR20 (GRP) "Tipsy", currently BRE (modified for open sea passages) "Homer", Drascombe Drifter "27". Homeport: Rossdohan

Sea Simon

Im certainly no expert, but...

My mizzen mast does indeed have some sort of harwood plug in that area, discovered from cuttings/swarf arisings when I fitted my mizzen downhaul/cunningham. Because of this i used stainl3ss screws.

However, are there not specific carbon pop rivets? I belive the crushing action is adjusted for carbon tubes, rather than the more usual alloys.
I recall much on the Phantom dinghy forums about this.
Look for parts on specialist race dinghy chandlers, eg Pinnel n Bax etc.

Llafurio point about sealing/bonding is good. It also might serve to electrically isolate (galvanic corrosion) stainless fittings? Perhaps a moot point if metal pop rivets, but i seem to recall this being an "issue" too?
BRe # 52 - "Two Sisters"  2016. Plank sprit, conventional jib. Asym spinn. Coppercoat. Honda 5. SOLD Nov 2022....
...From Oct 22.
BC 26 #1001. "Two Sisters 2", 2013. Alloy spars, Bermudan Sloop; fixed twin spade rudders, Beta diesel saildrive. Lift keel with lead bulb. Coppercoat. Cornwall UK.