Bay cruiser 23 mainsail halyard problems

[AndrewV]

Hi folks,

I notice there was a discussion on this back in 2021. They are describing what I have had, but mine got to a dangerous level:
over the last two years the hoist of the main has become more difficult needing winch power to get the sail up past the cross trees.
I have cleaned the track and lubricated it with only marginal improvement.
I top and tailed the halyard last winter as the upper end was fraying on the sheave
Last trip out this year, the sail went up with a bit of a struggle but would not come down at all. I could see the halyard outer was shredded at the sheave. Luckily there was minimal wind and I could get into harbour and drop the mast and cut the halyard and eventually release the sail.
The block is a selden like I have seen on other posts, its maximum size according to the local chandler is 5mm but the halyard was an 8mm line and the frame of the sheave seems distorted. Also I am told the sheave is designed for wire not rope. What mast top sheave are others using? I have the carbon fibre mast

[Graham W]

I'm sure that a BR23 expert will be along shortly.  In the meantime, it sounds similar to recently discussed issues with hoisting the BRe mainsail on a carbon mast https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,3561.0.html.

[Neil wales]

I had an issue with the cheek block jamming and then wearing away. It was a RWO R1760 – 25MM CHEEK BLOCK.
They are hard to source....has the company ceased trading? Fortunately Swallow were able to provide one but probably have no more.

I didn't want to drill more holes in the mast. Does the Seldon equivalent fit without adaption? (Out of interest, should a replacement be needed in the future)

I found the Seldon through deck pulley equivalent for the centreboard fitted with only slight modification. Selden 403-101-22R

[Ape Ears]

Hi Andrew,

The mast sheave block on my BRE is also RWO R1760 pictured with an 8mm dyneema halyard. I would check the link Graham supplied for further insight.

Kind regards, Andrew

[Llafurio]

Hi Andrew,

I know this is only tangential to your thread, but I find it significant, because the problems with the Bermudan rig and mainsail on both the BRE and the BR23 seem similar.:

: When I bought my latest BRE, the USA Bermudan rig was already standard for the boats. So I bought one, but put it away, and sailed the boat with my old BR20 carbon Gunter rig.

Now, when wanted to sell the BRE, I put the USA rig back on it, thinking it would make the boat more attractive to buyers. But to my astonishment, two out of the three -experienced- prospect buyers I had in the meantime did decline her because of the USA rig. And because I did not want to part with my Gunter rig.

I fully understand why, the Gunter is always better suited for true Raidboats, but I think the yard should take notice of this sentiment against the USA rig amongst some of the experienced raid sailors.

The Gunter rig is faster and easier to step and unstep, cheaper to make, and performing just as well, at least in connection with the luff-pocket yard.
And the Gunter mainsail is never sticky to hoist or to lower, as is apparently the USA-Bermudan.

Claus

[Graham W]

The RWO R1760 block is still listed in their catalogue as being current although I couldn't find one for sale at online chandleries and there doesn't seem to be any technical information of any description on it.  It's surprising that such a cheap block has been used for such a critical purpose. 

I couldn't find how far apart the RWO block's two screw holes are but I would be tempted to upgrade to something with an 8mm line capacity from a brand like Ronstan (RF35151), Selden (403-101-09R, not the 5mm one installed on AndrewV's boat) or H Sprenger (3565660055), even if it meant drilling a new hole in the mast.

[Stratocruiser]

I bought my 4 year old BC23 in November and thought the main very difficult to hoist, having to use the winch most of the way. I was out sailing recently and unable to drop the main, so I was forced to return to my mooring with it deployed. Fortunately it was only a light breeze.

On inspection, I found the RWO halyard block had distorted, trapping the halyard between the sheave and the Block. The sheave is only 25mm dia. and there is a significant offset between the axis of the block and the mast track. I replaced the RWO item with a Harken 38mm Cheek Big Bullet Block. I used the middle of the three existing holes at the mast head for the top bolt and drilled a new hole for the lower bolt. I used large SS washers as spacers so the larger sheave aligned with the mast track. I also fitted a long shackle to the halyard as the original system tended to twist the sail head.

I can now hoist the sail virtually to the top of the mast head with just a turn on the winch to tension it. It also has a better shape. More importantly, I just have to release the clutch and the sail falls under it's own weight, without having to haul it down. The modification was well worth the effort!

[Graham W]

I've just remembered that I have one of the offending RWO cheek blocks on the aft end of my mainsail sprit boom, as part of the original mainsail outhaul rigging.  Photo below.

Even handling the 6mm outhaul, it's never been frictionless and I should have replaced it with something better long ago.  The centres of the block's two screw holes are 40mm apart.  As far as I can tell, none of the alternative blocks mentioned above have the same screw hole configurations as the RWO.

[Sea Simon]

...It's surprising that such a cheap block has been used for such a critical purpose. 

I couldn't find how far apart the RWO block's two screw holes are but I would be tempted to upgrade to something with an 8mm line capacity...

I would agree with the above. Cheap n nasty RWO type blocks also found fitted in my centreboard uphaul system. Similarly critical
and highly stressed. Found worn/distorted after a few years relatively  light use. All upgraded. I posted extensively about this.

I also got rid of the similar RWO blocks on the mizzen sheet quarter blocks,  and the reefing pennants. The originals seemed adequate at the mizzen mid ships turning blocks, inset into the gunnels?

I'm fairly sure my BRe had the Selden mast fitting?

When fitting perhaps slightly "too large" flat-backed fittings to tubes, I've found it effective to make up a small flat pedestal/chock from epoxy putty, forming a small foundation for the block. This ensures the frame of the block is fully supported, and minimises twisting etc on the block frame. I guess it maybe glues the block to the tube a little too?