Taking the ground / half tide moorings

[KevinMisselbrook]

Hi,
I'm looking at the Bayraider Expedition or BC23 but need a boat that will sit all summer on a half tide mooring on the Essex / Suffolk border (mostly mud, but some hard bits). 
Is the Bayraider range suitable for this kind of use ? (I know primarily they are promoted as trailer sailors).
Do they have metal keel bands ? 
Are they of heavy enough layup to take this kind of use ?
Do they have bilge runners ... and again what are they capped with ?
They look like fantastic boats but I may be barking up the wrong tree.  Your honest advice on this would be appreciated. 
Many thanks

[MarkDarley]

Kevin,
Much depends on how protected your mooring is.  I would not dry out my wood BR20 on a regular basis but the GRP boats are much more solid.  I would say that you should ask the designer,  while being very clear about the conditions at the mooring.
I also have a GRP BR20 in California and I regularly park it on a calm beach.  Whether I would let it dry out on a mooring on a regular basis would depend entirely on how calm the water is as it settles.  Being thumped on a mud bottom is only marginally better than being thumped on a sand bottom.
Call Matt.....
Mark

[Sea Simon]

My GRP BRe has been on a half tide mooring in a large river for 3 seasons now, lies on firm sand...on a mooring heavy enough for a boat twice her size.
All fine, no structural issues.
The boat has stainless bands on both the main and bilge keels. Mine have been fine (with Coppercoat antifouling) but some others, in other locations have had corrosion problems. Documented here, search.

The fully lifting motor and foils makes a big difference.
Following excellent advice on here, I have this winter modified my "sealed" centreboard capping so as to allow ready access to the trunkway, using only basic hand tools. This is something I should have done before, and would recommend. I have in the past had problems with the board jamming up when moored, with weed/sticks, but not stones.

I have had other boats including a new-build clinker (mahogany on bent oak, laminated knees etc) wooden Tideway dinghy,  grp Drascombe Lugger, Orkney Strikeliner and a large dory (both with large heavy outboards) on the same mooring for >30 yrs. All except the Tideway have been fine, she proved to be too delicate. Expensive mistake!
Having enjoyed my BRe so much, I too have sought other Swallow boats recently, and drying out epoxy ply/strip boats on my mooring has worried me -  like Mark D.
That said, think a moment about the alternative, the stress/strains that regular launching/recovery and road transport puts on well-used trailer-sailers? These boats are rarely floated on/off their trailers, nor craned in/out?

The only real concern that I have had (in the early days) with the BRe was attaching a sufficiently robust mooring system to the boat. I have posted extensively about this on here before.  Search.The twin-leg system I  have developed works well for me, and seems to be kind on the boat. It utilizes both the the standard cleats, by the shrouds. The boat itself is entirely standard.

My boat has a full mast up cover which makes a big difference, but at the cost of windage! If leaving for extended periods, or expecting storms I remove the furled jib, boom/sail (not a stackpack) and cover. This is a result of having once seen a moored, fully rigged (more money than sense. The idiots had even "furled" the main!) Lugger capsized by the wind (probably partially flooded too?).

As MD says, why not ask the yard? Essential if you are thinking of a new-build, imho...