Swimming ladder on BC23

[MarkDarley]

Does anyone else have trouble climbing the swimming ladder on the BC23? I have a Pretty good weight to strength ratio but did not find it easy.

I think that if the lower part had an extended tube, making it more upright, it would be much easier (if uglier!).

Has anyone tried this?

[Nicky R]

I had the same issue as you when I swam off her recently. I'd thought about extending the tube, but we're worried that our cover won't fit if we do. (We keep her under the full cover as she's stored ashore.) I had wondered about dangling a rope over to help pull myself up, as the main issue was the angle of the ladder.

The alternative is having a separate ladder for swimming. One of the 23's on the raid, Breeze 2, had one that they put over the side, but I think even that needed a modification to keep it vertical.

[MarkDarley]

Not sure what the point of the swimming ladder is if you need another one to get on board!

[Paul vR]

We had extended tubes fitted for the lower support of the ladder during build and it works well. They put the ladder pretty much in a vertical position. I've had crews/swimmers with varying weight-strength ratios and all managed to climb onboard easily and independently. At the time the yard also considered it worthwhile, so I don't know why they didn't put it as standard. 

[MarkDarley]

I will ask that question!

[jonno]

Mark, I've sent you, at least, I hope I've sent you, a pm.

John

[Philip L]

Here is my account of modifying the bathing ladder on our BC23 in case anyone else fancies a go:-
I considered that because of the overhang, I would be able to cut length off the top attachments and still be able to get my feet on the rungs easily.  This would pull the top of the ladder inwards and reduce the amount of extension needed of the bottom supports.
I researched best prices for 316 L stainless tube and found two reasonably priced alternatives - Architectural Stainless Fittings  and Boat Fittings.  ASFittings was slightly cheaper and I paid £18.49 for 1m of 22mm external diameter, 1.5mm tubing.  The order confirmation email came through from Boat Fittings Ltd (the parent company) - its true what they say about pricing for marine items!  I think the ladder itself uses slightly thinner walled tubing.
I cut the top tubes short to just get rid of the previous holes using our Lidl angle grinder but in retrospect should have used a hacksaw as I think I hardened the steel slightly making subsequent drilling harder.  To drill the new holes in the tubing, you will need a small pillar drill.  It is too hard to drill the tubing accurately by hand.  Even then because of slight misalignment of the holes, the ladder is a tight fit on the mountings.
Matt was able to tell me that the transom is angled 24degrees off vertical but in the end, I didn't do anything fancy with a protractor and just measured the length of the bottom supports by eye with the ladder mounted at the top.  Time will tell if the boat was level on the trailer!  The new supports were cut to length with a hacksaw and new holes carefully drilled.  This time the drilling was much easier and neater.
As the bottom of the ladder has swung out, the T piece fittings on the ladder end up higher on the vertical parts of the ladder and new holes had to be drilled accordingly.
What have I learnt?
You have to be patient drilling stainless steel so as not to heat the metal up and cause work hardening.  Cut using a hacksaw for the same reason.
Now that it is mounted, although the whole ladder protrudes afterwards slightly less, the bottom may be more vulnerable when on a pontoon.
Yes - the winter cover won't fit properly so the ladder will be removed for winter storage. 

I can't promise to test it anytime soon - you will have to wait until the water warms up a little bit!